Must-Know Care Tips for Your Ball Python's Health and Happiness

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Ball Python Care Sheet

The Ultimate Guide On How To Care For Your Pet Ball Python.

Ball pythons are excellent companions for keepers of all experience levels. They are generally hardy, have manageable care requirements, and come in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Heart of the Python has spent years studying reptiles and has been breeding ball pythons since 2022. We created this care sheet to help you feel confident providing a safe, healthy setup for your new pet. If you have questions that are not answered here, please call us

Basic Ball Python Information

Common Name: 

• Ball python or Royal python

Scientific Name: 

• Python regius 

Native Habitat: 

• Western and Central Africa

Lifespan: 

• With proper care, they can live between 20-40 years.

Size: 

• What is the size of a Ball python? Ball python males and females can grow anywhere from 3-6ft in length. Females are much larger in girth (in circumference) than males, so females do appear larger. 

Expert Level: 

• Great for beginners of all ages.

Temperament: 

• Baby Ball pythons are normally very shy and as they get older will become more engaging and curious.

Handling: 

• Do Ball Pythons enjoy being handled? For the most part yes: however, a small percentage may not be used to handling or just not like it. Make sure to continue to handle your Ball python on a regular basis so they become used to human interaction. If you are too nervous to hold your feisty Ball python, I would recommend wearing a pair of gardening gloves. 

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HERE'S WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW BALL PYTHON(S):

What You Will Need For Your Ball Python's Enclosure:

Terrarium Size:  

There are many different ways to keep a Ball python. The most popular way is to keep your baby Ball python in a 15-20 gallon terrarium or plastic bin with latching lid. If you are looking to become a breeder, look into purchasing a rack system. Rack systems are the best way to keep medium to large collections of Ball pythons where you can connect Flexwatt heat tape to share heat. *** In our opinion, baby Ball pythons will feel safer if you start them in an enclosure smaller than 25 gallons. Then, as your Ball python grows, go ahead and increase the size of their enclosure. ***

Adult enclosure sizing (general guideline): Many adult ball pythons thrive in enclosures around 4 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft (or similar floor space), with secure locks and plenty of cover. Regardless of enclosure size, provide tight-fitting hides, clutter, and multiple resting options so the snake feels secure.

Go BioActive!

Bioactive enclosures for ball pythons offer a naturalistic habitat that closely mimics the reptile’s environment in the wild. These setups typically feature live plants, natural substrate, and beneficial microfauna such as springtails and isopods, which help break down waste and maintain a healthier ecosystem. Not only do bioactive enclosures enhance the visual appeal, but they also promote the snake’s well-being by encouraging natural behaviors and providing enrichment.

Housing Multiple Ball Pythons: 

Do not cohabit your Ball Pythons. Yes, some people do successfully cohabit their snakes, but it is not a good ideal at all. Your Ball pythons can become stressed out or injured. The only time you should have two snakes together is during breeding. 

Water Dish: 

Water is very important for your Ball python and should be in their enclosure at all times. Make sure to NOT use distilled water for your reptile. If you do not know if your tap water is safe, we would suggest using bottle water like spring water. Also, you can use the product: “ReptiSafe® water conditioner which is great for water bowls and removes chloramines and chlorine, detoxifies ammonia and nitrites, and provides essential ions and electrolytes which help to hydrate newly acquired animals.” 

Substrate: Do not use sand or cedar substrate. 

Safe options: Repti-Chip, Eco Earth, or even Reptisorb Liners

Hides: 

It is best if you have two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool side. Your Ball python will be able to comfortably regulate their temperature having a hide on both sides. 

Hygrometer/Thermometer: 

I am always surprised how many keepers opt out of purchasing this very important tool for keeping most reptiles. A hygrometer is a very inexpensive piece of equipment that allows you to measure the humidity in your reptile's enclosure. The Thermometer is very important to track the ambient air temperature in the enclosure. I recommend GOVEE brand, or Sensorpush which are available on Amazon. I also recommend getting an infrared thermometer gun to check the temperature of your hot spot over the under tank heat mat.

Heating Source: 

Heating mat (undertank or side) or heat tape. UVB light is not required. The easiest and most efficient way to keep a single Ball python is with an under tank heating mat. This can be easily purchased online on Amazon or Retile Supply stores.  Depending on the temperature of the room where the enclosure is located, you may also need some sort of overhead heat source. Ceramic Heat Emitters(CHE) are probably the best source of heat, and must be controlled by a thermostat. Heat mats must ALWAYS be controlled by a thermostat to keep the correct temperature at all times!

For larger groups in a rack system, Flexwatt heat tape is a great choice. You can find this either online or at a hardware store. Do not use heat rocks in your Ball python’s enclosure as your python could get burned.

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Setting Up The Correct Temperature and Humidity For Your Pet Ball Python

Temperature: 

Hot side ambient temperatures should generally be 88-92, with a warm hide/hot spot around 90F (avoid exceeding 95F at the surface). Cool side ambient temperatures are typically 78F. A nighttime drop of a few degrees is normal, but avoid letting the enclosure fall below the mid-70s for extended periods.

Thermostat (required): Any heat source (heat mat, heat tape, or ceramic heat emitter) must be controlled by a thermostat to prevent burns and overheating. Place the thermostat probe where the animal experiences the heat (for example, on the warm-side floor inside the warm hide for an under-tank heater, or secured beneath the heat emitter for overhead heat). Verify temperatures with an infrared temperature gun.

Lighting/photoperiod: Ball pythons do not require UVB to survive, but providing a consistent day/night cycle supports normal behavior. Aim for roughly 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness (adjust seasonally if desired). If you use UVB, provide appropriate levels for a nocturnal/crepuscular snake and ensure shaded areas are always available

Humidity: 

Ball pythons on average need to have about 60% to 70% humidity in their enclosure. Babies sometimes need a little bit higher. My personal tip is that if your Ball python has problems shedding you may need to raise your humidity slightly. Just a few ways to add increase humidity: dampen bedding with watering can, use a larger water dish. cover the screen top 75% with a towel, place a humidifier in the same room,or add live plants. Keep in mind if you live in an area that gets cold and dry in the winter, it might be next to impossible to keep the humidity high. Try your best to keep it as close to 60% as possible and refer to the shedding section if you need tips about stuck shed. 

Tip: A “humidity hide” (a snug hide filled with damp sphagnum moss or damp paper towel) can help prevent incomplete sheds—especially for juveniles—without making the entire enclosure overly wet.

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My Ball Python Is Shedding Their Skin, Now What? How To Care For Your Ball Python

When They Are Shedding.

Why is my Ball python shedding their skin?

Ball pythons will shed their skin multiple times through their life because it allows them to grow. The younger the Ball Python is, the more often they will shed. When your Ball python is ready to shed, their scales will look dull and their eyes will start to look blue which is called Pre-ecdysis.

Is it normal for my Ball python not to eat when they are in shed? 

Sometimes during this period, your Ball python may refuse to eat which is perfectly normal.

How can I help my Ball python have a perfect shed? 

To help your Ball python have a full shed, you can slightly raise the humidity. When your Ball python sheds their skin that is called Ecdysis. You will see your Ball python start to rub their little faces on decor, the terrarium, the rocks or even you if you are holding them. If the humidity is correct and your python has no shedding issues you should have a beautiful complete shed. 

What do I do if my Ball python has stuck shed?

Small areas of stuck shed do not tend to be a major problem, unless it is an eyecap. Just make sure that humidity is corrected for the next shed, and the stuck shed will come right off with the current shed.

If your Ball python has large areas of stuck shed, first make sure that your humidity is high enough in their enclosure. There are a few ways to help with stuck shed is using a Rubbermaid or Sterilite tub with holes.

• The first way is to soak your Ball python in about an inch of (just warmer than room temperature) water for 30 minutes.

• The second way you can help is by dampening a paper towel with warm water, twisting out the excess water and placing in a tub. Then, let your Ball python cruise around for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Once your Ball python has either soaked or cruised around the paper towel, put on a rubber thumb to gently remove the stuck shed.

If you notice that you are unable to remove an eye cap or a piece of shed that looks restricting, please go to a local breeder or vet to have it professionally removed. 

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Feeding My Pet Ball Python And How To Deal With Feeding Issues

What we feed our baby Ball pythons:

We normally start all of our baby Ball pythons on live rat pups once a week. You can keep your Ball python on live or switch to frozen/thawed whatever works best for you.

What to do when feeding your Ball python live rats : 

Please note if you feed live you need to supervise the feedings as live rats can injure your Ball python.

What size prey should you feed your pet Ball python? 

The size of the prey should be the same size as the largest part of their body. You should notice a small lump when they eat the prey item.

How often should I feed? (general guideline): Hatchlings/young juveniles often eat every 57 days; larger juveniles commonly every 7-10 days; adults are typically fed every 10-14 days. Adjust based on body condition, age, and feeding response, and avoid power-feeding.

I need to feed my Ball python live, but I do not know where to find them: 

If you are feeding live, try to find a local breeder in your area who supplies rodents. You can check with local reptile Facebook groups or online classified websites. You could also check with a local pet store to see where they are getting their supply from.

I need to feed my Ball python frozen/thawed, but I do not know where to find them? 

If you are feeding frozen, there are a plethora of online companies that ship bulk rats to your door. We recommend Fuzzy Acres or look for them on Instagram.

How to prepare frozen/thawed rodents for my Ball python? 

To prepare a frozen/thawed rodent, thaw it fully (commonly in the refrigerator overnight, then brought to feeding temperature). Warm the prey to approximately 100105b0F before offering. Use an infrared temperature gun to confirm. Do not microwave rodents.

When can I handle my Ball python after I feed them?  

Typically, we suggest not handling your Ball python 24 hours before feeding and then 24-48 hours after they have taken a meal. 

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Why is my Ball python not eating?  

1)Your Ball Python May Be A Picky Feeder

Ball pythons are known for being picky feeders, so do not immediately feel like you are doing something wrong if your Ball python does not wish to eat.

NEVER FORCE FEED YOUR BALL PYTHON. 

2)Your Ball Python Is Still Settling Into Their New Environment

If you have a baby Ball python refusing to eat from a breeder or store that has said that they have already taken a few meals, your Ball python may need some time to acclimate to their new environment.

3)Your Ball Python Does Not Have The Correct Setup

Double check to make sure that your temperatures and humidity are correct. Not having the correct temps and humidity can cause your Ball python to stop eating.

Your Ball Python Wants Something Different

Try switching up your rodent or routine to improve your Ball python's chances of taking a meal:

• try switching between live or frozen rodents

• try a smaller rodent

• try feeding in the evening or right before bed

Your Ball Python Is Being Offered Rodents Too Often

Keep in mind that if your baby Ball python is refusing to eat, please keep your offerings between 1-2 weeks apart to keep your Ball python's feeding response strong. 

Your Ball Python May Want Something Specific

We have heard of some keepers offering a different color mouse, scenting the mouse and braining a frozen/thawed mouse. I haven’t heard about a ton of keepers having luck with those methods, but it is always worth a try. 

My Ball Python Has Regurgitated, Now What?  

Ball pythons are extremely sensitive to regurgitation. If for whatever reason your Ball python regurgitates, make sure to wait about a 2 weeks before feeding again and give smaller meals for about a month before offering a regular meal.

If your Ball python regurgitates a second time, please visit a vet. 

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Ball Python Health Concerns To Watch Out For

Routine cleaning: Spot-clean waste immediately, replace soiled substrate as needed, and disinfect the enclosure and water bowl on a regular schedule. Always rinse and dry thoroughly before returning the snake to the enclosure.

When to contact a reptile veterinarian: Seek professional help if you notice repeated regurgitation, open-mouth breathing, persistent wheezing/clicking, significant weight loss, swelling, severe dehydration, or retained eye caps. This care sheet is general guidance and is not a substitute for veterinary advice.

Scale Rot: 

If you notice that your Ball python has a rash or blisters this could be scale rot. Scale rot is typically due to the humidity being way too high. First, place your Ball python into a completely dry environment and we would suggest using paper towel as a substrate as you can change it frequently to keep the enclosure dry.

Wait a day or two before placing a water dish back into their enclosure. Once you place a water dish back into the enclosure, if you notice that the water dish has spilled onto the paper towel please change it. Make sure to clean up immediately if your snake has urinated or defecated. Finally, visit the vet in order to start a course of antibiotics to help heal your snake.  

Respiratory Infections (R.Is):

If your Ball python has signs of Respiratory infection, please visit a vet to diagnose your snake and receive antibiotics to treat the infection. The sooner that you go to the vet the faster the healing time will be. Also, make the following adjustments to their enclosure, keep the hot side at 92°F and the humidity around 90%. A hot and humid environment will help the healing process.

For minor RI, there is some success with using F10 veterinary disinfectant to nebulize your snakes with. I would only suggest doing this along with having a vet check out your python. If your Ball python has a bad respiratory infection, ask your vet if they feel that they need to be off food for a period of time.